pizza cheese part 1
Baked pizza dough is bread. Now top that bread with tomato sauce and you have a pizza (the tomato pie is a popular choice in the New Haven area and more so in Philadelphia). I like a well done tomato pie dusted with pecorino romano as do many people. However for most of us the addition of “mootz” (mozzarella) is the final transformation that takes bread to the pizza we crave.
Most pizza is made with 2 kinds of cheese, some type of mootz and a grated hard cheese(covered in “pizza cheese part 2”). Of course all types of cheese and cheese blends are used and that’s fine, no way is better or worse. It boils down to what area of the country you’re from, what you like and what you’re used to.One example is Provel cheese, used in the St. Louis area, which is a blend of cheddar, Swiss, and provolone. Another is Detroit style pizza which uses Wisconsin brick cheese, a very dense cheese with a distinctive flavor. Neapolitan pizza uses fresh mozzarella exclusively. Provolone and ricotta are popular, usually in combination with other cheese. Some pizzerias use a 50/50 blend of low moisture whole milk and low moisture part skim milk. Everything is possible with the many types of cheese and an endless array of combinations. Mozzarella or mootz is the king of pizza cheese and low moisture whole milk mozzarella is usually the way to go for that traditional American pizza. New York/New Haven style utilizes low moisture whole milk mozzarella.
Many people going to the local supermarket to buy pizza cheese will likely end up with a one pound block of mozzarella from the deli case(Polly-O, Galbani, etc.) that is either whole milk( not labeled low moisture and will be called “whole milk mozzarella” as opposed to “low moisture whole milk mozzarella”) or low moisture part skim milk mozzarella. Whole milk mozzarella is considered a full fat cheese with a high moisture content( soft cheese). Low moisture part skim milk, obviously has less fat. Both can be used to make pizza. However, using low moisture whole milk can bring your pies to another level.
When I was 12 one of my jobs, at the pizzeria, was to shred 5 pound blocks of low-moisture whole milk mootz using an attachment on the dough machine, and for years the only way to get the so-called good stuff was to buy a 5 lb block. Nowadays low-moisture whole milk mozzarella can be found in manageable weights for a decent price with a little perseverance.
Often you’ll find low moisture whole milk mozzarella at Delis located in grocery stores or Italian markets.However be sure it is low moisture whole milk and not low moisture skim milk. There you can specify any amount you want and have it sliced(aim for about 21 slices per pound, ¾ oz. per slice) or take it as a block and shred or slice it yourself. Boar’s Head in my area sells low moisture whole milk for $10.99 per pound.
I recently heard that the grocery store chain “ Trader Joe’s” sells a house brand of low moisture whole milk packaged in 1 lb blocks. There is one near me and I will check it out. Italian markets in my experience are hit or miss for finding low-moisture whole milk mootz, but worth a try. Galbani and Polly-O low moisture whole milk packaged in 1 lb blocks can be found in some areas of the country.Worth a try if you find some. Recently I looked on Amazon and found a respectable number of low moisture whole milk mozzarella available in different weights with many brands offering free shipping.This is encouraging, glad I looked.
Currently my mozzarella comes from Gordon Food Service, a wholesale distributor with a walk-in retail store. The store happens to be close by and sells 1.5 lbs. of low-moisture whole milk for $6.99 ($4.66 a pound). It makes a good pie. Preferably, it is pre-sliced (no slicer anymore). 32 slices separated by paper at 3/4 oz per slice.I have always favored sliced over shredded. Not many pizzerias today do it that way. However, Pepe’s Apizza in New Haven has been doing it that way since 1925. I find it to be faster and neater but that’s just me .Most pizza makers will shred their mozzarella.
Why is low-moisture whole milk mozzarella held in high regard for making a good traditional American pie? There are a few things that stand out. Low moisture whole milk has more fat, salt and less moisture(denser,harder) than other mozzarella. Consequently, because of its make-up, it tastes good with a salty richness and nice bite. It melts and spreads well and has that classic stretch. Additionally,there is less chance of the pie becoming soggy due to its low moisture content, and since it melts so well and has less moisture it will cook fast at high temperatures. Hot and fast.
Low moisture whole milk has a long shelf life. The mootz I recently purchased had a “use by date” of 4 months into the future. Many of you are already aware of the characteristics of low moisture whole milk. If not, make a few pizzas utilizing the different cheese’s, look,compare and taste. The difference will be readily apparent.. Another test is to look at a cold slice the next day. The low moisture whole milk slice will have this very cohesive and uniform layer of cheese covering the top of the pie, like a skin,due to its superior melting and spreading traits.
All mozzarella are not created equal. Problems of some brands being too oily and or to salty come to mind. Quality from one brand to another will vary.The manufacturing process may have changed or quality control was lacking and it may or may not be a temporary situation. Experiment, make some pizza.
Most of the good low moisture whole milk mozzarella is made in Wisconsin. Wisconsin cheese comes highly regarded. The Grande Cheese company out of Wisconsin is legendary. Many pizzerias in the U.S.use Grande mozzarella to make their pizza. However it normally can only be obtained with an account through a Food Service distributor.
Interesting note: One 6 lb block of Grande low moisture whole milk mozzarella shipped in styrofoam with the required reusable cooler packs from Vern’s cheese in Wisconsin and shipped to Florida would be roughly : cheese $41.29 + cooler packs $11 + Fed-X 3 day shipping about $144 + Vern’s $5 shipping charge and not counting any tax comes to approximately $200. Shipping could be more if the cooler packs do not last long enough and you have to pay more for faster shipping which could run to over $200 alone. Crazy.
Many good brands of mozzarella are sold only through wholesale distributors.Be creative. If you know a food service salesman or someone with a food business they might be able to take care of you. Again today there is a lot of good mozzarella to be had in practical quantities at a fair price that you will find with minimal effort.
Personally I would stay away from bagged and pre packaged shredded mozzarella.Shred it yourself. Mootz loses something when a factory shreds mozzarella and puts it in a bag. Special additives used to keep the grated cheese from clumping up and drying out might be the cause.
Fresh mozzarella can be used on any style pizza. It is all about what you like. However, Neapolitan pizza is the style it is most associated with. There our cows milk (Fior di Latte) and buffalo milk fresh mozzarella. The buffalo milk is considered to be the top of the line. Fresh mozzarella is a very soft cheese with a lot of water content. Care has to be taken when using fresh mozzarella, your pizza will become soggy if you use too much.Try cutting up the cheese into 1/2 inch cubes or just tear it up and then store it, uncovered in the refrigerator overnight. This helps to evaporate some of the water and dry it out some. Fresh mozzarella has a very short shelf life, so some pizzerias make it themselves daily and you can make fresh mozzarella at home without much of a learning curve.
Most of the Italian markets I frequent make fresh mozzarella daily and you can purchase a ball or more from them. Most supermarkets will stock at least one brand of commercially made mozzarella. All the European countries, especially Italy, have been making pizza for a very long time.Fresh mozzarella is an everyday staple for them. The pizza there is, of course, different from what we are used to, but in a very good way. Nevertheless a sauce & mootz pie, baked well done, with low moisture whole milk mozzarella and a generous dose of pecorino romano,for me is, what it’s all about.
Thank you for taking the time to read my post
better pizzamaking
Jimmy
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