pizza cheese part 2

Some pizza makers use only mozzarella on their pizzas, however for most of us the addition of  parmesan or pecorino is a good idea.There is no right or wrong, just what you’re used to or prefer. The hard cheeses, whether grated or shaved on pizza, can bring your pie to a higher level. Many people would not think of having their macaroni without that hit of parm or pecorino included in the dish. Consequently, I feel the same way towards pizza. It’s part of the pizzamaking process and would be an unfinished pie for me without it.

The types of hard cheese used in pizzamaking generally fall into 2 categories. Cheese made from cow’s milk (parmesan) and cheese made from sheep’s milk (pecorino). They are added pre-bake, post bake, or both. To be called Grana Padano (parmesan), Parmigiano-Reggiano (parmesan) or Pecorino Romano(sheep) or Pecorino Sardo, Pecorino Tuscan etc., the cheese has to be produced in certain geographical regions of Italy under strict conditions and is legally protected. Now Boars Head has all three of these cheese’s in their product line up and all three have to state on the packaging that they are a product of Italy, hence manufactured to Italy’s requirements. Favored by some, Asiago is cow’s milk cheese originally from Northern Italy that resembles parmesan, however I find it to be sweeter.

Pecorino Romano is made from sheep’s milk in a few areas of Southern and Central Italy, but mostly in Sardinia. It is sharper and saltier than Grana Padano. Grana Padano is made in the Po Valley region of Northern Italy from cow’s milk, it is more mild and buttery than pecorino romano. Parmigiano-reggiano is made of course from cow’s milk in the Southern portion of Northern Italy and is aged longer (2 to 3 years in most cases) than the other two cheeses.

American made parmesan is simply called parmesan and very few American cheese makers will produce it. Grande Cheese makes a parmesan and Sartori Parmesan are both from Wisconsin.  Except for possibly one or two local producers, America does not make true pecorino. Romano cheese (cow’s milk) is a cheese that somewhat resembles pecorino. Grande Cheese has a Romano and I’m sure it’s fine. However,this cheese should not be confused with genuine pecorino romano from Italy. What American hard cheese that is produced tends to be inconvenient to purchase and not readily available Some of this has to do with wholesale issues(see pizza cheese part 1).

There are different grades of parmesan and pecorino and the grading is largely based on the length of time that the cheese is aged. Generally the longer the aging process, the more flavorful and the higher the cost.

Most of us are aware that it’s not a good idea to use the pre-dried cheese found in those plastic shakers on supermarket shelves. We should all be looking to eat real food and that means buying a block of cheese cut from the big cheese wheel and grating it ourselves. Your body and taste buds will thank you.

Pecorino romano is what I grew up with and have always used for pizzamaking. It is used in many households and pizzerias in the New Haven area. The majority of the Italian immigrants who settled there reigned from Southern Italy where pecorino romano is a staple.They just continued to use what they used in Italy. Pecorino romano is great in salads, soup, pasta, sauces and of course on pizza.  Locatelli Pecorino Romano was a popular brand growing up and still is. Many people consider it the best. Locatelli is the family name that makes the cheese, 200 years old and still going strong. You can find it almost everywhere. Prices vary considerably, so check around..

Nowadays I use “Ambriola ” pecorino romano which  serves as the house brand at my favorite Italian market. Ambriola is an importing company that owns a cheese manufacturing plant. It’s a good all-purpose pecorino. Coincidentally, Locatelli is imported by the Ambriola Co. and both cheese products sit side by side in the market’s deli case. I will  purchase 3 to 5 wedges cut from the wheel. Each wedge weighs approximately 3 ⁄ 4 to 1 pound and is then individually wrapped. At home I will grate them with a food processor, one wedge at a time when needed. Selection and price is normally much better for the hard cheese’s at the market than the supermarket. 

I like the pecorino to be the last ingredient on the pie before baking. In this manner it retains its salty tang while remaining in balance with the other items. When the pecorino is buried within the other ingredients the flavor seems to get lost. When placed on top after baking the flavor seems to be too prominent and not in balance with the other items.  If my pizza gets topped with pecorino after the bake it’s usually because I forgot to put it on pre-bake. However, cold toppings, similar to arugula(rocket),seem to favor application after baking. There really is no right or wrong here. Experiment, make a lot of pizza and find your way.

Thank you for taking the time to read my post
better pizzamaking
Jimmy

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